Understanding How Hair Color and Bleach Work
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When you dye or bleach your hair, you’re not simply adding color—you’re engaging in a molecular-level restructuring of the hair shaft.
Human hair gets its color from two types of melanin: eumelanin, which produces brown and black tones, and pheomelanin, which contributes to red and yellow hues.
The specific tone of your hair emerges from how much of each melanin type is present and how densely packed it is within the cortex.
hair extension wholesale suppliers coloring products typically contain dyes that either deposit new color onto the hair or chemically alter existing pigments.
Temporary and semi-permanent dyes sit on the surface of the hair and do not penetrate deeply, so they wash out over time.
To achieve lasting color, permanent dyes contain tiny molecules capable of slipping past the cuticle and into the hair’s inner layers.
Once inside, these molecules react with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, stable pigment molecules that cannot easily wash out.
Lightening hair through bleaching is a far more destructive chemical intervention than standard coloring.
The bleaching formula relies on hydrogen peroxide activated by ammonia to open the hair and dissolve its natural color.
Peroxide swells the hair structure and chemically breaks melanin into harmless, transparent fragments.
The process not only removes pigment but also depletes the hair’s natural moisture and structural integrity, often resulting in roughness and breakage.
Each level of lightening increases porosity and fragility, making post-bleach conditioning not optional, but essential.
The acidity or alkalinity of hair colorants plays a pivotal role in how effectively they penetrate and bond with the hair.
The cuticle of healthy hair is slightly acidic, around 4.5 to 5.5.
Most permanent hair color and bleach formulas are alkaline, with a pH around 8 to 9 or higher.
The raised pH causes the cuticle scales to lift, creating pathways for dyes and bleach to reach the cortex.
Post-treatment acidic rinses or conditioners are crucial to reseal the hair and prevent color fade and moisture loss.
Another factor is the porosity of the hair.
Damaged or processed hair has lifted cuticles and gaps in the cortex, making it a sponge for chemicals.
This can lead to uneven results if not accounted for during application.
Before full application, stylists test color or bleach on a small strand to gauge timing and outcome.
Advances in hair color technology now integrate reparative components like ceramides, panthenol, and botanical extracts to reduce breakage.
Some products even include antioxidants to help protect the hair from oxidative stress during the coloring process.
Still, the fundamental chemistry remains the same: altering hair color means disrupting its natural structure, and that requires careful handling.
Understanding the science behind hair coloring and bleaching helps you make informed decisions.
Whether DIY or professional, understanding the process lets you avoid over-processing, reduce damage, and extend the life of your color.
Respecting the biology of hair means honoring its structure, not just covering it—and that’s the key to truly beautiful, enduring color.

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