Audi G28: The Good, The Bad, And The Ugly
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How to Replace an Audi G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic demonstrates how to replace audi key fob the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is located at the top of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a message to the ECU via a grey wire T55/49, then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is located at the edges of the transmission, above the flywheel ring. This sensor sends signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU utilizes this information to control boost and fuel. It also sends signals to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to connect with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can activate spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and could indicate chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper chain of timing. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It can be a bit difficult to test since there are various pins on the connector, and each one has different functions. The best way to do it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read around 1000 ohms when it is at full operation. Check for signs of coolant, or oil in the connector bay if there are issues with this component.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when accelerating from highway paytoll at full speed I noticed a massive decrease in power. It was as if the engine was running out of gas. Or, my injectors weren't firing. In the morning, i removed the spark plugs. Three were drenched with gazoline the fourth one was dry. When i crank the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on the top of each hole in the injector and the 3 that were drenched in gazoline leap out, however the 4th one stays closed. I tried to test the ground connections of ECU pins 14,30, and 48/55. I found 0ohm. I'm assuming the issue is in another place.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car is able to start if the G28 is not plugged in and runs fine when it is plugged in however it has intermittent misfire issues at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even when unplugged, still shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars but the actual pressure is zero.
I don't know what to do. I think I've eliminated everything else. But i'm worried that I might have missed something. Please let me know if you have any ideas! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump on the g28 is activated by a signal by the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is similar to the G4 sender and both work on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. It is easy to find the spare in a salvage shop or a parts store. Testing them is easy to do - just put your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from the left on the black connector's end). They should be infinite ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that has to know the position and speed of the crankshaft to make decisions about timing of the fuel injectors, etc. It makes use of a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to accomplish this. If you encounter a problem with either one of these, the diagnostic scanner will show the codes that could trigger the engine shutting down.
The signs of a malfunctioning G28 sensor are an inaccurate rev counter in the gearbox, gears shifting quicker than normal and/or misfiring when you are in gear. It is likely that the sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you notice any of these symptoms. They're cheap and easy to find especially when they're a Bosch model like ours. Alternatively, GM's version of this part would be an option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine speed sensor could be the cause of many problems in your car. It's a crucial component of the transmission in your replacement audi key audi cost Uk (http://jonpin.com/), as it transmits information to the ECU regarding how fast or slow the car's engine is turning. This sensor could cause the transmission to malfunction and other car components to be affected.
The G5 engine speed sensor is situated on the outside of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear and transmits a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49 via an uncolored wire. The ECU utilizes this signal to control the flow of fuel and boost and also timig. It also relays it to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can check for sensor failure by examining the continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. Also, you can verify continuity between pin T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 as well as pin T26a/12. It should show approximately 1000 ohms resistance between these two points. This is a typical component across the audi a1 key fob 80 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones could be available in wrecking yards.
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic demonstrates how to replace audi key fob the G28 engine speed sensor. This sensor is located at the top of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear. It sends a message to the ECU via a grey wire T55/49, then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is located at the edges of the transmission, above the flywheel ring. This sensor sends signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU utilizes this information to control boost and fuel. It also sends signals to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.The sensor is used to connect with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can activate spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and could indicate chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper chain of timing. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It can be a bit difficult to test since there are various pins on the connector, and each one has different functions. The best way to do it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read around 1000 ohms when it is at full operation. Check for signs of coolant, or oil in the connector bay if there are issues with this component.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when accelerating from highway paytoll at full speed I noticed a massive decrease in power. It was as if the engine was running out of gas. Or, my injectors weren't firing. In the morning, i removed the spark plugs. Three were drenched with gazoline the fourth one was dry. When i crank the engine with no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on the top of each hole in the injector and the 3 that were drenched in gazoline leap out, however the 4th one stays closed. I tried to test the ground connections of ECU pins 14,30, and 48/55. I found 0ohm. I'm assuming the issue is in another place.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car is able to start if the G28 is not plugged in and runs fine when it is plugged in however it has intermittent misfire issues at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62) even when unplugged, still shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars but the actual pressure is zero.
I don't know what to do. I think I've eliminated everything else. But i'm worried that I might have missed something. Please let me know if you have any ideas! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump on the g28 is activated by a signal by the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is similar to the G4 sender and both work on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. It is easy to find the spare in a salvage shop or a parts store. Testing them is easy to do - just put your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from the left on the black connector's end). They should be infinite ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that has to know the position and speed of the crankshaft to make decisions about timing of the fuel injectors, etc. It makes use of a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to accomplish this. If you encounter a problem with either one of these, the diagnostic scanner will show the codes that could trigger the engine shutting down.
The signs of a malfunctioning G28 sensor are an inaccurate rev counter in the gearbox, gears shifting quicker than normal and/or misfiring when you are in gear. It is likely that the sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you notice any of these symptoms. They're cheap and easy to find especially when they're a Bosch model like ours. Alternatively, GM's version of this part would be an option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine speed sensor could be the cause of many problems in your car. It's a crucial component of the transmission in your replacement audi key audi cost Uk (http://jonpin.com/), as it transmits information to the ECU regarding how fast or slow the car's engine is turning. This sensor could cause the transmission to malfunction and other car components to be affected.
The G5 engine speed sensor is situated on the outside of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear and transmits a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49 via an uncolored wire. The ECU utilizes this signal to control the flow of fuel and boost and also timig. It also relays it to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can check for sensor failure by examining the continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. Also, you can verify continuity between pin T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 as well as pin T26a/12. It should show approximately 1000 ohms resistance between these two points. This is a typical component across the audi a1 key fob 80 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones could be available in wrecking yards.
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